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Gemstone Enhancements & Care

Unfortunately, gemstones don't come out of the ground ready to be set in jewellery. Raw crystals from the earth are usually called 'rough gemstones' (or just 'rough') and this is actually very apt - rough gems can look pretty rough!

To make sure each gemstone reaches its full potential, lapidaries and jewellers employ a variety of techniques. Some of these, like cutting and setting, are immediately visible, while others such as enhancements or treatments remain relatively unknown despite being used for thousands of years. Practiced in India for over 4,000 years, the earliest known gemstone enhancement is heating a gem to improve its colour. Oiling to improve a gem's clarity is another ancient technique that has been used for over 2,000 years.

Not all gemstone enhancements can trace their origins to antiquity, some such as the beryllium bulk diffusion of Sapphires and the physical vapour deposition (PVD) of Mystic Topaz, are the result of more recent innovations. In the gem industry, the term 'enhancements' sometimes exclusively refers to traditional techniques that are so common they are seldom mentioned, reserving 'treatments' for more modern methods. The problem is that this is not universal - both terms are often used to refer to the same processes.

Regardless of what they are called, all gemstone enhancements simply accentuate the beautiful end results of gemstones natural formation. Defined as any process other than cutting that improves a gem's appearance (e.g. colour, clarity, phenomena etc.), durability, value or availability, with the vast majority of gems enhanced in some way, these processes have become an important part of the modern gemstone industry. Given the prevalence of enhancements, one term that still has a universal meaning is 'natural'. A 'natural' gemstone is one that has not been enhanced or treated in anyway.

Enhancement Disclosure

The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO or Conf'd'ration Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orf'vrerie, des Diamants, Perles et Pierres) is the organisation that records accepted trade practices and nomenclature for the global gem and jewellery industry. Under their guidelines, all jewellers should be aware of how the gems they sell are enhanced, disclosing this information to their customers. In a world where many enhancements are very difficult to detect (or even undetectable) using standard gemmological equipment, enhancement disclosure can be confusing for the consumer. Our threefold enhancement policy is designed to keep things simple, providing you all the information you need to make informed buying decisions:

  • We include a statement on every customer invoice advising you to always assume enhancements when purchasing our gemstone jewellery, directing you to this page for more information on what enhancements may have been applied to the gemstones you have purchased. This is not to say that every gem we sell is enhanced, we also sell 'natural' gemstones, it's just easier if you work off this assumption. 
     
  • We only knowingly accept enhancements that are permanent with normal wear. The only exception is Emeralds, whose beauty is enhanced and easily maintained by oils or polymers. We get our information on gem enhancements from universities, gem laboratories, trade associations, regulatory bodies, professional journals, books, the internet as well as individual experts.
     
  • Gemstone enhancements can make gemstones more beautiful, affordable and even more durable. Despite this, some gems require special care. While this section includes some simple gem grooming do's and don'ts, the big table below shows the potential enhancements applied to each gem variety, their frequency, as well as any special care instructions.

Gem Care Do's & Don'ts

While one of the defining attributes of gemstones is durability, much as you wouldn't slip on Prada stilettos for a lively game of beach volleyball, following a few simple do's and don'ts will make sure your gemstones last for generations.

  • Do keep your gemstone jewellery in the separate compartments of a jewellery box or in cloth pouches, always storing your gem necklaces flat. When storing chains in pouches, leaving the catch just hanging out will reduce tangles.

  • Do gently wipe your jewellery with a lint-free cloth after each wearing to remove oils and salts.

  • Do periodically clean your jewellery. Rings can easily collect dust, soap and grime behind the setting if you wear them regularly. While a dirty gem will loose colour and brilliance, most gemstones are easily cleaned by soaking them in water with a little gentle soap. If especially dirty, use a very soft toothbrush to gently scrub behind the gem. Organic gems like Pearls or Amber should only be wiped clean with a moist cloth.

  • Do pull out a watch's crown to the setting position when storing them to save the battery.
     
  • Do listen to your jewellery. If you think a gem is loose in its setting, very gently tap it close to your ear. If you hear a 'rattle' the gem is definitely loose and will need to be repaired.
     
  • Do ask the seller about how to clean and care for the jewellery you have purchased.
     
  • Do take the time to read the following table.
  • Don't put on your jewellery before using cosmetics, hair spray or perfumes. Some gemstones are porous and may absorb chemicals that can discolour them.

  • Don't ever remove your jewellery by pulling on the gems as this can loosen their settings resulting in them falling out!

  • Don't ever store your jewellery in heaps as your gems can scratch each other. As almost every gemstone is harder than gold, silver or platinum, even the finish of your jewellery can be damaged if you throw your jewellery in a heap.

  • Don't wear your jewellery when playing sports, doing housework or anything else that risks impact, exposure to chemicals or heat. Simply exercise common sense.

  • Don't use a commercial cleaning solution until you have checked it is suitable for your gem.
     
  • Don't use ultrasonic or steam cleaners for every gem. Check the table below to see what gems are OK for these mechanical cleaners, but as a general rule, when in doubt, leave it out. Ultrasonic cleaners transmit vibrating energy waves to knock dirt off the jewellery, while steam cleaners use jets of steam to blast dirt off jewellery.
     
  • Don't use silverware polish to clean sterling jewellery. Apart from getting lodged in nooks and crannies, it is not gem friendly.


Gemstone Enhancement Explanation & Frequency Special Care Instructions Steam Cleaning Ultrasonic Cleaning
Actinolite (including Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A None.
Agate (including Fire) Natural. N/A None.
Alexandrite (including Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A None.
Alexandrite Natural. N/A None.
Amazonite Colourless wax or oil, paraffin or hardened resin and/or impregnated with colourless plastic or hardened resin. Impregnation with colourless plastic or hardened resin is occasional, while colourless wax or oil, paraffin or hardened resin is usual. All improve appearance. None.
Amber Heated. Usually applied to improve appearance and/or deepen colour. Clean by gently wiping with a moist cloth.
Amblygonite Natural. N/A Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Amethyst (including Bi Colour, Platina and Rose de France) Heated. Occasionally used to lighten colour and/or remove smokiness. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Amethyst (Green and Rio Grande Green) Heated and/or irradiated. Usually applied to provide/improve colour and appearance. None.
Amethyst (Uruguayan and Zambian) Natural. N/A None.
Ametrine (including Sunburst) Heated. Rarely applied to improve colour. None.
Ametrine Heated. Rarely applied to improve colour. None.
Andalusite Natural. N/A None.
Andesine Heated and/or diffused. Sometimes applied to provide/improve colour. None.
Anglesite Natural. N/A Handle with care, very fragile.
Apatite (including Caribbean Blue and Neon Blue) Heated. Usually applied to improve appearance and/or deepen colour. None.
Aquamarine (including AAA, Santa Maria, Santa Teresa and São Domingos) Heated. Usually applied to remove yellow or green components to produce a purer blue colour. None.
Aquamarine
(Cat's Eye) 		Natural. N/A None.
Aragonite (including Capillitas) Natural. N/A None.
Aventurine Natural. N/A None.
Aventurine (Black) Irradiated. Usually applied to provide colour. None.
Axinite Natural. N/A None.
Azurmalachite (also known as Azurite Malachite) Surface waxing and/or impregnated with colourless plastic or hardened resin. Impregnation with colourless plastic or hardened resin is rare, while surface waxing is common. All improve stability, durability, lustre and/or colour. None.
Beryl (Seafoam) Natural. N/A None.
Beryl (Yellow) Heated or irradiated. Usually applied to improve or provide colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Bixbite Colourless oil and resin. Commonly used to improve appearance. None.
Bloodstone Natural. N/A None.
Bronzite Natural. N/A None.
Carnelian Heated and/or dyed. Dyeing is occasional, while heating is usual. All produce colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Calcite Natural. N/A Handle with care, very fragile.
Chalcedony Dyed. Commonly used to improve colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Chondrodite Natural. N/A None.
Chrysoberyl (including Cat's Eye and Tunduru) Natural. N/A. None.
Chrysocolla Surface colourless waxing and/or impregnation with colourless plastic or hardened resin. Occasionally used to improve appearance. None.
Chrysoprase Natural. N/A None.
Citrine (including Bi Colour and Lemon) Heated or irradiated. Usually applied to produce colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Citrine (Mandarin) Heated. Usually applied to produce colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Clinohumite Natural. N/A None.
Danburite (including Pink and White) Heated. Commonly used to improve appearance. None.
Danburite (Brown) Irradiated. Commonly used to improve appearance. None.
Danburite (Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A None.
Diamond (all Colour Enhanced Diamonds including Black, Blue, Champagne, Green, Pink, Red and Yellow) Irradiated and/or heated. Always used to improve colour intensity or to produce unique colours. None.
Diamond (White) Natural. N/A None.
Diopside (including Russian and Star) Natural. N/A None.
Dumortierite Natural. N/A None.
Emerald (including AAA and Colombian) Colourless oil, polymer, wax and/or resin in fissures, and/or open fractures or cavities filled with hardened resin. Colourless oil, polymer, wax and/or resin in fissures are usual and open fractures or cavities filled with hardened resin is common. All improve appearance. These enhancements can be damaged by some solvents and thermal shock. Do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Emerald (Trapiche) Natural. N/A None.
Epidote Natural. N/A None.
Fluorite (including Bi Colour, Colour Change, Capillitas and White) Natural. N/A None.
Fluorite (including Blue, Green, Purple, Red and Yellow) Irradiated. Commonly used to improve or provide colour. None.
Gahnite Natural. N/A None.
Garnet (including AAA Tsavorite, Andradite, Blue Colour Change, Colour Change, Demantoid, Hessonite, Kamtonga Colour Change, Madagascan Demantoid, Malaia, Mali, Mandarin, Merelani Mint, Mozambique, Pyrope, Rhodolite, Spessartite, Tsavorite and Umbalite) Natural. N/A Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Goshenite Natural. N/A None.
Hawk's Eye Natural. N/A None.
Heliodor Irradiated. Usually applied to provide colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Heliodor (Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Hematite Natural. N/A None.
Hiddenite Irradiated. Rarely used to improve and/or provide colour and uniformity. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Howlite (Blue) Dyed. Commonly used to imitate Turquoise or Lapis Lazuli. None.
Howlite (White) Natural. N/A None.
Idocrase Natural. N/A None.
Iolite (including Ceylon) Natural. N/A None.
Jade (Jadeite) Colourless polymer impregnation and/or polymer and colourless polymer impregnation followed by acid treatment and/or dyed. Commonly used to improve colour and uniformity. None.
Jade (Nephrite) Dyed and/or impregnated with colourless oil, wax or resin. Rarely used to improve colour and uniformity. None.
Jade (Cat's Eye Nephrite) Natural. N/A None.
Jasper Dyed. Commonly used to imitate other gemstones. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Kornerupine Natural. N/A None.
Kunzite (Bi Colour) Natural. N/A Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade.
Kunzite (including Green, White and Yellow) Heated or irradiated. Commonly used to improve and/or darken colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Kunzite (Patroke) Heated. Commonly used to improve and/or darken colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Kyanite Natural. N/A None.
Labradorite Surface colourless waxing. Occasionally used to improve appearance. None.
Lapis Lazuli Surface colourless waxing and/or dyed. Commonly used to provide colour and/or colour uniformity. None.
Malachite Surface colourless waxing and/or impregnated with colourless plastic or hardened resin. Impregnation with colourless plastic or hardened resin is rare, while surface colourless waxing and/or coating with colourless wax is occasional. All improve colour. None.
Marcasite Natural. N/A None.
Moldavite Natural. N/A None.
Mookite Heated. Always necessary for cutting. None.
Moonstone (including Rainbow) Natural. N/A None.
Morganite (including Bi Colour) Heated or irradiated. Commonly used to eliminate yellow overtones. None.
Mother of Pearl Coated, dyed or bleached. Occasionally used to improve and/or change colour and/or colour uniformity. Clean by gently wiping with a moist cloth.
Obsidian (including Snowflake) Natural. N/A None.
Onyx Dyed. Always used to achieve colour uniformity. None.
Opal (including Blue, Blue Fire, Fire, Green, Jelly, Mexican Fire, Pink, Semi Black, Yellow and White) Natural. N/A Keep away from heat and drying environments, these gems can crack if they lose structural water. Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Opal (Boulder) Infusion of unhardened colourless substances into voids. Occasionally used to improve appearance. Keep away from heat and drying environments, these gems can crack if they lose structural water. Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Opal (Matrix) Heated with organic substances. Always used to improve appearance. Keep away from heat and drying environments, these gems can crack if they lose structural water. Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Orthoclase Natural. N/A None.
Pearl (including Freshwater, Tahitian and South Sea) Bleached, dyed, chemically enhanced or irradiated. All our Pearls are cultured. Occasionally used to improve and/or change colour and/or colour uniformity. Clean by gently wiping with a moist cloth.
Pearl (Mabe) A Mabe Pearl is a hemispherical shaped Pearl that is grown against the inside of the oyster's shell and is cut out of the shell with a circle-bit drill. The nucleus is replaced with resin and the back capped with a piece of Mother of Pearl. It can also be bleached, dyed, chemically treated or irradiated. These Pearls are classified as composite gemstones. Always used to create this gemstone. Clean by gently wiping with a moist cloth.
Peridot Heat, colourless oil, wax or resin in fissures and/or filled fractures with colourless hardened resin. Rarely used to improve appearance. Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Peridot (Kashmir) Natural. N/A Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Petalite Natural. N/A None.
Pezzottaite Natural. N/A None.
Phenakite Natural. N/A None.
Prehnite Natural. N/A None.
Quartz (excluding Blue Moon, Graffiti, Medusa, Phantom, Rose, Rutile and Strawberry) Heated, irradiated or PVD coated. Occasionally used to improve colour or produce unique colours. Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) is an oxide enhancement that uses optical interference to produce a variety of colours by applying a bonded layer of fine titanium atoms to a gemstone (U.S. Patent Number 5,853,826 for Azotic Coating Technologies Inc.). Do not re-cut or re-polish gemstones with superficial colour (or phenomena) surface layers.
Quartz (Blue Moon and Lavender) Heated. Usually applied to provide/improve colour and appearance. None.
Quartz (including Cat’s Eye Rutile, Dendritic, Graffiti, Medusa, Phantom, Rose, Rutile, Strawberry and Tourmalinated) Natural. N/A None.
Quartzite Dyed and/or impregnated with colourless plastic or hardened resin. Occasionally used to improve appearance. None.
Rhodochrosite Natural. N/A None.
Rhodonite Dyed. Occasionally used for colour uniformity. None.
Ruby (including Mozambique, Mozambique Cat's Eye, Mozambique Star and Star) Heated with a high refractive index lead-glass to fill fractures and cavities and/or bulk diffused with certain additives (beryllium). Always applied to improve clarity and/or intensify colour and/or colour uniformity and/or appearance. The lead-glass is usually yellow to orange and artificially augments the red colour of these gems as well as potentially adding weight. These gems have fillers in voids/cavities, fissures and/or open fractures that can scratch more easily than the gem itself as well as being more vulnerable to damage from heat or some solvents.
Ruby (AAA Tanzanian) Heated and/or the healing of fissures and/or filled open fractures and cavities and/or bulk diffusion of certain additives (beryllium). Usually applied to produce, intensify or lighten colour and/or improve colour uniformity and/or appearance. These gems may have fillers in voids/cavities, fissures and/or open fractures that can scratch more easily than the gem itself as well as being more vulnerable to damage from heat or some solvents.
Ruby in Zoisite Natural. N/A None.
Sapphire (Black Star) Natural. N/A None.
Sapphire (including Blue, Ceylon, Colour Change, Fancy, Green, Kanchanaburi, Midnight Blue, Orange, Padparadscha Colour, Pink, Purple, Rainbow, Star, Sunset, White and Yellow) Heated and/or the healing of fissures and/or filled open fractures and cavities and/or bulk diffusion of certain additives (beryllium). Usually applied to produce, intensify or lighten colour and/or improve colour uniformity and/or appearance. These gems may have fillers in voids/cavities, fissures and/or open fractures that can scratch more easily than the gem itself as well as being more vulnerable to damage from heat or some solvents.
Sapphire (AAA Ceylon, AAA Tanzanian and Padparadscha) Heated. Usually applied to produce, intensify or lighten colour and/or improve colour uniformity and/or appearance. None.
Sard Dyed or heated. Dying is occasional, while heating is usual. All provide colour. None.
Sardonyx Dyed. Usually applied to improve colour. None.
Scapolite (including Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Scheelite Natural. N/A None.
Shell (Pink) Dyed. Often used to improve colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Sillimanite (including Cat's Eye and Star) Natural. N/A None.
Sodalite Dyed. Rarely used to improve colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Spectrolite Surface colourless waxing. Occasionally used to improve appearance. None.
Sphalerite Natural. N/A Handle with care, very fragile.
Sphene (including Capelinha) Natural. N/A None.
Spinel (including Black, Blue, Cobalt Blue, Fancy, Noble Red, Pink and Purple) Natural. N/A None.
Sugilite Natural. N/A None.
Sunstone (including Star) Natural. N/A None.
Tanzanite (including AAA) Heated. Usually applied to produce and/or improve colour. Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Tanzanite (Bi Colour, Cat's Eye, Green, Orange, Pink and Yellow) Natural. N/A Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
Tiger's Eye Dyed, bleached or heated. Commonly used to improve colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Topaz (AAA Imperial, Imperial and White) Natural. N/A None.
Topaz (excluding AAA Imperial, Imperial and White) Irradiated, heated, PVD coated and/or diffused. Usually applied to improve colour intensity or to produce unique colours. Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) is an oxide enhancement that uses optical interference to produce a variety of colours by applying a bonded layer of fine titanium atoms to a gemstone (U.S. Patent Number 5,853,826 for Azotic Coating Technologies Inc.). Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour. Do not re-cut or re-polish gemstones with superficial colour (or phenomena) surface layers.
Tourmaline (Bi Colour, Black, Cat's Eye, Cat's Eye Pirineu, Chrome, Kunar Valley, Mint, Pink Cuprian and Pirineu) Natural. N/A None.
Tourmaline (including Blue Green, Brazilian Rubellite, Cuprian, Fancy, Green, Indicolite, Paraíba, Pink and Rubellite) Natural or heated and/or irradiated. Commonly used to improve colour intensity and appearance. None.
Tourmaline (Itatiaia, Mutuca Indicolite, Oyo and Santa Rosa) Heated. Commonly used to improve colour intensity and appearance. None.
Tourmaline (Shimoyo Rubellite) Natural or irradiated. While the vast majority of Shimoyo Rubellite is natural, approximately 10 percent has been irradiated to improve their colour. Please note that irradiated Tourmaline is almost impossible to detect and is therefore generally regarded as not impacting value. None.
Turquoise Impregnated with plastic and/or surface colourless waxing and/or dyed. Dying is rare, while impregnation with plastic and surface colourless waxing is common. All improve stability, durability, lustre and/or colour. None.
Unakite Natural. N/A None.
Zircon (including Cinnamon, Kaduna, Ratanakiri, Red, Yellow and White) Heated. Always used to improve colour. Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Zircon (including Brown, Green and Saffron) Natural. N/A Do not wear or leave for extended periods in strong light as these gems may fade or revert to their original colour.
Zultanite (including Cat's Eye) Natural. N/A Can be damaged by thermal shock, do not expose to extreme temperature changes.
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