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Tanzanite

"Tanzanite is the most important gemstone discovery in over 2,000 years".
Henry B. Platt, Former President & Chairman, Tiffany & Co.

The Masai, a people forever linked to one of East Africa’s most spectacular gems, Tanzanite

 

The Masai, a people forever linked to one of East Africa's most spectacular gems, Tanzanite
 
A big claim from the bloke who introduced it to the market, but with just over 40 years under its belt, Tanzanite is a gem people still rave about. The quintessential 'haute fashion' gemstone of the 20th century, Tanzanite is one of the best selling coloured gemstones of all time. In recognition of the enormous popularity it garners, Tanzanite joined Turquoise and Zircon as the official industry birthstones for December in 2002. As a December baby who has visited the world's only source of Tanzanite, this was also personally significant. Undeniably drop-dead gorgeous, glamorous, exotic and rare, the question still remains, why is Tanzanite so coveted? Colour baby, colour. Tanzanite displays some of the best 'velvety blues' in the gem kingdom and, depending on your perspective, can even give the finest Blue Sapphire a run for its money! But more on its colour complexity and comparisons in a moment, let's travel to where our story begins, beneath the shadows of Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro in the arid Merelani foothills that rise from the hot Sanya plains...

Five hundred and eighty-five million years ago, something so geologically unique happened beneath the earth's surface that some prophesise only a one-in-a-million chance of Tanzanite occurring elsewhere. Tanzanite's colours are down to the amount and ratio of chromium and vanadium, and it's the chance incorporation of these elements into pockets of transparent Zoisite (Tanzanite's mineralogical name) that has resulted in one of the world's most sought-after gemstones. Given that Tanzanite's sole deposit scarcely covers 20 square kilometres, it's no surprise that it is routinely described as "a thousand times rarer than Diamonds". Much like Zultanite, which also only comes from a sole deposit, Tanzanite is as much defined by its rarity as its beauty. Now the cynics out there will probably doubt the "a little over a decade of mine life remaining" claims, but do try to remember that prophesising the life of a gemstone deposit is a lot more complicated than scheduling a train timetable, and we all know how wrong they can be! Even though the odd included Blue Zoisite crystal has been found in Pakistan, Tanzania has the world's only commercial deposit. The deposit has been segmented by the Tanzanian government into four 'blocks' (A, B, C and D) and while production in at least one block has increased, overall Tanzanite production is decreasing. Unless discovered elsewhere, newly mined Tanzanite will largely disappear in years to come, probably within my lifetime.
 
AAA Tanzanite & Diamond 18K White Gold Ring

AAA Tanzanite & Diamond 18K White Gold Ring
 
According to popular myth, the first Tanzanite aficionados were nomadic Masai herdsmen. Apparently, they spotted beautiful blue Tanzanite crystals which had been transformed from their typical bronzy greyish brown by a grass fire. While this romantic story alludes to how Tanzanite's colours blossom with a little gentle heating, it seems unlikely that a grass fire could hit the temperatures needed (around 520°C). Perhaps this may have happened over time under the hot African sun, but again, this hypothesis reads more like urban legend (virtually all Tanzanite is heated to permanently enhance its colour, click here for more). Whatever the truth, the Masai are a people forever linked to Tanzanite and by sheer coincidence, the Masai regard blue as a sacred spiritual colour. Once bestowing blue beads and robes to women who have born children, the Masai have now adapted this old tradition. Today, Masai chiefs give Tanzanite to wives on the birth of a baby as a blessing for a healthy, positive and successful life.

Myths aside, in 1967 a 'man' discovered some sparkling Tanzanite crystals and as they say, the rest is history. The problem is, which 'man'? Variously attributed to Ali Juuyawatu, Ndugu Jumanne Ngoma and others, visit any pub in Arusha, located 25 kilometres north of the Tanzanite deposit, and you're bound to be told one version of the story. However, three things are for certain: Manuel D'Souza staked the first claim; legendary Scottish geologist Campbell Bridges (the discoverer of Tsavorite, click here for more) was the first person to bring Tanzanite to the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) for identification; and Tiffany & Co., specifically Henry B. Platt, great grandson of Louis Comfort Tiffany, coined 'Tanzanite' and launched it to a willing world. While Czechoslovakian Baron Zois von Edelstein, for whom 'Zoisite' is named, was cheated out of better recognition, I think we all agree that 'Blue Zoisite', which for Henry echoed 'blue suicide', just doesn't fit. Christened Tanzanite in tribute to the land of its birth, it quickly became one of the world's most popular gemstones.

But what good is a clever name if you can't back it up with beauty? As mentioned previously, Tanzanite is all about colour, so it will come as no surprise that its grading systems mostly critique colour quality. Tanzanite is pleochroic (click here for more) or getting more technical, trichroic (three-coloured). This means each Tanzanite crystal has three colours, blue, purplish-red and greenish-yellow brown (bronze), whose intensity changes when it is viewed from different angles. While heating minimises Tanzanite's bronze hues, maximising the blues, violets and purples, this is dependant on the natural characteristics of each crystal and doesn't produce consistent results. While Tanzanite's rarest and most valuable colour is typically a strong daylight 'sapphire-esque' blue, most of the time, Tanzanite's final colour is a combination of its three trichroic hues, depending on the prominence of pleochrosim in each finished gem. This is because Tanzanite with more blue than purple or violet is faceted along the width, not length, of the crystal to accentuate the purity of the blue colour. This is an inherently more expensive proposition because weight and size is sacrificed for colour. While Tanzanite's colours are typically blues, bluish-purples, bluish-violets, purples, violets, violetish-blues and combinations thereof, highly collectable greens, pinks and yellows are also known to exist. Tanzanite exhibits a colour shift (a colour change where the two coloursare near each other on the colour wheel) from its blues in daylight, to purples and violets in incandescent lighting (candlelight). This is a desirable trait, and as most of us live in mixed lighting environments, you can often see these colours simultaneously. While industry paradigms dictate that Tanzanite with a pure 'closest-to-sapphire' blue equals a higher value, Tanzanite should never be viewed merely as a Sapphire substitute. Even its finest pure blues will display some violets and purples in incandescent light, so while it's tempting to make comparisons, Tanzanite's uniquely beautiful colours should be appreciated for what they are rather than what some would like them to be. Once you've accepted Tanzanite is hardly ever pure blue, selecting a pastel or more intensely coloured Tanzanite is simply down to your taste and budget. Just remember that colour and size in Tanzanite are irreparably linked, so you're generally not going find its richer, more intense purple-blues in smaller sizes. While gemmological beauty is in the eye of the beholder, Tanzanite with excessive pleochroism or a vivid purple or violet in daylight will be priced accordingly. Also, be aware that Tanzanite's deeper more expensive colours are often identified by quality prefixes such as 'AAA'.

AAA Tanzanite & Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Ring

 


AAA Tanzanite & Diamond 18K Yellow Gold Ring
Available in an array of shapes and sizes, Tanzanite under 20 carats is most popular and practical for jewellery. Ovals and cushions are the most common cuts, but Tanzanite is also available in rounds as well as other shapes. While you should look for a shape, overall appearance and deft finish that afford good brilliance, the quality of faceting is important for Tanzanite as the visibility of its pleochroism is largely determined by the lapidary techniques used to finish the gemstone. Also, be aware that Tanzanite which is too large or poorly cut will darken, losing brilliance. Last but certainly not least, the clarity standard for Tanzanite is usually eye-clean (no visible inclusions when the gem is examined approximately six inches from the naked eye) and it can even display a good clarity under magnification. This is important, as a high transparency and an absence of inclusions accentuates its glamorous colours, and are thus signature characteristics of Tanzanite.

Despite a fleeting resemblance between Tanzanite and fine Blue Sapphire, touting Tanzanite as "looking like Sapphire wishes it could look" or "sending Sapphire into a jealous rage" ultimately seems awkward and perhaps a little silly to me. In these competitions, no gem wins. The reality is that Tanzanite is not a Sapphire substitute. As attested by its unabated popularity and enormous public recognition, Tanzanite is definitely its own gem. Despite the intrinsic scarcity associated with a sole deposit, Tanzanite is one of the most beautiful transparent blue gemstones around. When you compare its beauty to bucks, Tanzanite remains exceptional value for money.
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