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Jewellery Settings
"For we are told by tradition, that he
(Prometheus) enclosed a fragment of this stone
in iron,
and wore it upon his finger; such being
the first ring and the first jewel known".
Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD), Historia
Naturalis
If you believe Greek mythology, apart from being
the guy who gave us fire, Prometheus was also
responsible for getting us into jewellery. To
the uninitiated, jewellery looks incredibly
complex, but this couldn't be further from the
truth. Gemstones aside, simply judge the balance
(symmetrically or asymmetrically), proportion
and finish of the metal work.
Most rings are crafted from three basic parts:
the band (the ring itself also known as the
'shank'), the gallery (also know as the 'head')
and the gemstone. These basic parts, along with
the 'findings' (the collective name for posts,
clips, chains, and hinges, are used in
combination to make every piece of jewellery
imaginable. The following pages introduce you to
the main setting types as well as the names of
jewellery components.
Bar Setting
 Description: A variant of channel
setting, bar setting is not the 'ambiance' at
your favourite pub. In bar settings, the
gemstones are individually set between short
strips of precious metal, like sleepers on a
railway track.
Cuts: This setting is best suited to
rings featuring baguette, emerald, oval,
princess, round and square-cut gems.
Jewellery: Classic yet contemporary,
in bar settings the sides of the gemstones are
open, optimising brilliance and scintillation
(sparkle).
Bezel Setting
 Description:
A bezel setting has a metal rim that precisely
encircles the sides of a gemstone, extending
slightly above. The rim or collar can have
straight or scalloped edges that stretch around
the gem's entire perimeter or only around a
portion of it, as in semi-bezel or half-bezel
settings. The bezel setting is an ancient
technique that can appear very contoured,
slightly retro yet contemporary. Bezel setting
is labour intensive as it must be balanced and
straight from angle to angle.
Cuts: While all cuts can be bezel set,
it is easier to use this setting for ovals and rounds.
Bezel setting gemstones with sides and angles
are considered especially difficult.
Jewellery: Since the bezel setting
securely protects the gemstone's edges, girdle
and pavilion, it is great for people on the go.
Good for designs with bigger shoulders or bigger
gemstones, the bezel setting is used in earrings,
bracelets, necklaces and rings.
Channel Setting
 Description:
Channel setting is where the gems sit girdle to girdle
in a channel created by two long tracks of precious metal.
Jewellery with a groove setting is also sometimes
referred to as a channel setting. While this setting
allows gems to display their maximum brilliance, its
success is dependent on using gems with precisely cut
pavilions.
Cuts: Although not always the case, channel
setting is typically used for small gems of equivalent
size. It is increasingly common in modern designs featuring
round, baguette, emerald, oval, princess, round, and square
cut gems. Channel set princess, rectangular and square
shapes are particularly striking as there is no metal
or spaces between the gems.
Jewellery: Channel setting is widely popular in
bridal jewellery, such as the ubiquitous 'white Diamond
white gold' wedding band, and tennis bracelets. It is
said the 'tennis bracelet' was born at the 1987 U.S.
Open when the clasp of an inline Diamond bracelet, worn
by former world number one Chris Evert, broke. The game
was actually interrupted to allow Chris to recover her
bracelet. The rest is channel setting history...
Flush Setting
 Description:
A variant of the bezel setting,
flush setting is made by creating a tapered
hole in which the gemstone sits with the
surrounding metal pressed around its rim.
Unlike bezels, the metal does not fold over
the top of the gem.
Cuts: This setting provides good protection
for all gemstone cuts. As the crown rises
from the setting, flush set gemstones still
catch the light.
Jewellery: Flush settings provide a smooth,
sleek, elegantly tailored, contemporary
appearance.
Pave Setting
 Description:
Pave is pronounced 'pa-vay'
and is the French word for 'paved'. Using
multiple gemstones to display an illusionary
bigger look, pave settings look like little
gemstone cobblestones laid close together
with only a small amount of precious metal
visible. The gems are separated and secured
by little beads of the setting metal, resulting
in a sparkling field of gemstones.
Cuts: This setting is most suitable for baguette, emerald, oval, princess, round, and square
cut gemstones.
Jewellery: This setting is often combined with other settings.
Prong Setting
 Description:
Prong setting, sometimes known as claw setting, is the most commonly
used technique to set gemstones. To create a prong setting, a gem is
inserted into three to six equidistant prongs that form a basket-like
base. The ends of the prongs are bent over and shaped so that they rest
against the gem, holding it snugly in place. While standard prong
settings use four prongs, the more prongs used the more secure the
gemstone. A prong's visible ends can be rounded, oval, pointed, chevron,
flat or formed into ornamental shapes called 'enhanced prongs'.
Cuts: Because it is relatively easy to adjust for individual
cuts, most gemstones can be prong set. Its high position also freely
allows the movement of light, allowing your 'rock' to sparkle!
Jewellery: All jewellery types can be prong set, but specifically
solitaire rings, engagements rings and bridal jewellery. For example,
the ultimate engagement ring, the celebrated six prong 'Tiffany' style
setting, has become the 'the ring of rings' since it was developed
by the founder of the iconic New York jeweller Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
Combined prong and pave settings are suited to designs with
smaller shoulders or smaller gems.
Parts of Rings
Parts of Pendants & Necklaces
Earring Types
Parts of
Bracelets
Parts of Watches
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